EditorialA bagel with goat cheese chèvre, house-cured gravlax, pickled fennel and microgreens served at BernBaum’s in Fargo, N.D., Oct. 12, 2022. (Dan Koeck/The New York Times)
EditorialCured and blistered halibut belly, center, one of the many Vietnam-inspired dishes at Berlu, the chef Vince Nguyen’s tasting-menu restaurant in Portland, Ore., July 24, 2022. (Celeste Noche/The New York Times)