EditorialFrika, a traditional peasant?s dish that includes cheese and potatoes, in Kobarid, Slovenia, July 30, 2021. (Marcus Westberg/The New York Times)
EditorialMatthew Conway, who has worked remotely for the restaurants Marc Forgione and Peasant since the pandemic began, in Charleston, S.C., Feb. 28, 2021. (Leslie Ryann McKellar/The New York Times)